Showing Off the Exuma Cays

We have talked about living aboard the boat, the different challenges that we have, including limited water, power and cell coverage when we are off the dock and into the beautiful waters of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park (ECLSP).  We get by on what we have purchased before leaving the U.S and by topping up on fresh food in some of the small towns.  Last year we were very lucky that our visits to the stores happened to be right after the delivery boat had been in, so there were lots of fresh fruits and vegetables available. Not so much this year.

We arrived in Staniel Cay Marina on Tuesday, a couple of days before our guests, Sue and Randy, arrived so we could get ready. Laundry, boat cleaning, fueling, filling water tanks and groceries were on the list. The delivery boat arrived Wednesday, instead of Tuesday as expected because it had apparently gotten stuck on a sandbar and needed to wait for high tide to get off. Once it was at the government dock the deck cargo of building supplies had to be unloaded before the fresh food below. The Bahamas waiting game I call it!

Sue and Randy arrived 9 am Thursday morning on Flamingo Air, a 14 seater plane that they could not even stand up in. The flight came in from Nassau, along with three other flights, all landing one after another. When they deplaned, they went to get their luggage, only to find one of their bags was on another plane that had landed right after them!

Flamingo Air

With baggage in hand, we started walking back to the boat, stopping in two of the three food stores, only to find nothing fresh on the shelf and a promise that it would be there in the afternoon.  Our plan was to leave right away and sail up to Warderick Wells in the ECLSP, and that was about a four hour sail. So, we could either wait for food, and go up the next day, or leave with the few things I had on board and make do.  I was able to get a cauliflower, some pears and a couple of yellow peppers, as well as a loaf of Bahamian coconut bread. So we decided to be on our way and as Hugh says, we never starve on the boat.

We had a beautiful sail up to Warderick Wells, and arrived mid-afternoon and picked up our assigned mooring ball. One of the best things about having Sue and Randy on board was watching their reactions to the incredible views as we motored into the mooring field. Warderick Wells north mooring field is one of our favorite places and we were very excited to share it with them.

Trekker (closest boat) at Warderick Wells

We spent three nights, hiking, snorkeling, swimming and just relaxing on the boat and watching for eagle rays and turtles to swim by the boat. One of the spotted eagle rays actually jumped out of the water right beside us! Spectacular! We also walked up to BooBoo Hill to make a new offering to Neptune. And Sue found our offering from last year, it was still there!

2019 offering to Neptune on Boo Boo Hill

Saturday nights the ECLSP host Happy Hour on the beach, and all the boats in the anchorage gather together with the staff of the ECLSP to share stories, appetizers and libations. Always a fun time to meet other cruisers (a lot with their plus 2s = guests) and compare notes!

Warderick Wells beach

Sunday we motored down to Cambridge Cay, also part of the ECLSP, and sat on a mooring ball for two nights. It’s another great spot, with amazing snorkeling, hiking  and beaches. When we arrived there was already one megayatch on one of three balls designated for large boats up to 150 feet long. As we sat and ate lunch, another one arrived, and it was great entertainment to watch it pick up the mooring ball.  Just before dusk, another one entered the anchorage and took up the third ball. This is the first time we have seen three mega yachts in one anchorage, and needless to say we felt pretty small beside them!

Trekker surrounded by mega yachts

The ECLSP host boat, who stay at Cambridge Cay, for a month to be the representative for the Park, collect fees and make sure everyone behaves, arranged another happy hour Sunday night, and everyone gathered to watch a beautiful sunset.

Cambridge Cay sunset

We had a great couple of days exploring the area, including a whole morning visiting four different snorkel spots, including one Hugh and I had never been to. The weather was amazing, and with calm winds we were able to see places you can only get to when it’s calm.

Sue and Karen

Reluctantly we brought them back to Staniel Cay for their flight back to Nassau, where they are staying with Randy’s cousin for another week. They were wonderful guests, willing to do anything we suggested, and embraced our cruiser lifestyle with no questions. They got very good at showering on the swim platform too!

And we didn’t starve!!

Karen, Sue, Randy and Hugh

We are now sitting in Black Point, starting our journey south towards George Town, where we will decide our route back north. It sounds crazy, but we are half way through!

And so the adventure continues, one day at a time!