Cape Fear to Beaufort SC

I need to echo Karen's opening comment from her last post. I too can't believe a week has passed since her last post!

At the end of the last post we were contemplating our first overnight voyage, from Bald Head Island (Cape Fear) to Charleston SC.  We left the marina at about 1000 Monday November 20 and motorsailed in light winds most of the day.  By 1700 the wind had picked up a little bit.  If we were to have kept motoring at 6 knots we would have arrived before dark in the morning so we decided to switch off the engine and see what speed we could make under our single reefed main and working jib.  We started out at between 3 and 4 knots and then slowly sped up to 4 to 5 knots. We wanted to reach the Charleston channel at about 0900 so each hour we checked to see if we were on schedule.  If not, we would have put the engine on, but luckily we were able to sail all night.  

Karen prepared ravioli for dinner (and we snuck a glass of Chardonnay to celebrate) and at about 2030 I went below to sleep and Karen kept watch until 2330.  I had a pretty good snooze and when I came up we were doing over 5 knots!  Karen went below and I began our watchkeeping routine.  I set my watch to alarm every 20 minutes when I would do a 360 degree scan around the boat, check for any AIS signals on the chartplotter, check on our arrival time and check the wind direction and sail trim.  Then I'd sit back, listen to my iPod and look at the amazing stars, identify lights on shore and then do it all again.  I was surprised at how quickly my watch went by, before I knew it, it was 0230 and Karen was coming up on deck.

I went down below again and slept for about an hour until Karen called me up because the wind had shifted and we had jibed. Jibing is when the wind shifts around behind the mainsail and pushes it across the boat.  In strong winds an unexpected jibe can be very violent and cause damage.  In fact our daughter Alyssa was hurt when she was caught by the mainsheet during an unexpected jibe when she was racing in Antigua Sailing Week this past winter! I had our new boom brake rigged and apparently it worked, because I didn't even notice the jibe down below and Karen said it was very slow and gentle.  We re-trimmed the sails and since I was awake anyway Karen went down for some more rest.

About 0630 the horizon started to brighten and by 0700  the sun was up as was the wind.  We were moving at over six knots and an ocean swell was coming from our port stern quarter and the wind driven waves from our starboard stern quarter resulting in a pretty uncomfortable rolling motion.  No matter, Charleston channel was in sight and we were on schedule to arrive at 0900 as planned.  Just as we were about to enter the channel we noticed a container ship coming up the channel so decided to bail out, take down the sails and let him pass.

Container ship in Charleston channel

Once into the Charleston Harbour Marina we had a nice big breakfast and went to bed.  Next thing it was 1500 and we had to get to the showers and get ready to catch the shuttle into historic Charleston to look around and go out for dinner.  We walked through the market and then went for dinner at Low Country Bistro.


Wednesday we walked Charleston, took a horse drawn carriage tour and visited the Old Slave Mart Museum.  

Hugh, Karen, Sheila, Bob

Old Slave Mart Museum

Thursday was a very wet dreary day which was brightened by our having Bob, Sheila, Bill and Michael from Aquila on board for a pot luck to celebrate American Thanksgiving. We began dinner with each of us expressing what we were thankful for.  Common themes were the opportunity to make this trip, as well as the wonderful boaters we have met along the way.

Friday we headed south down the ICW, passing under a posted 67' bridge just south of Charleston harbour and then under a 65 footer that, slightly before high tide showed about 67' on the height board.  Whew!  We anchored up Toogoodoo Creek (mainly so we could include the name in the blog) but it turned out to be one of the most beautiful anchorages I think we have ever been in.  Marsh grass surrounded us for for miles!

Her Diamond at sunrise on Toogoodoo Creek

Saturday we left at 0800 to make it under another bridge at mid tide (nearly 67') and traveled on a rising tide just in case we were to run aground in the shoaled areas of the ICW. We followed the advice of Bob423, a respected contributor to the Active Captain social network in transiting the shoaled areas, staying to the "green side" (port) or in the "visual center" and made it to Beaufort SC (BYOO-fert) without touching bottom!  In Beaufort we went into town for a beer and apps and had dinner back on the boat following which Bob and Sheila came over for Euchre. In spite of the boys jumping out to massive leads in each game the girls prevailed in two games so we are again even ...

Today we walked around town, took a historic horse drawn carriage tour, did some chores on the boat and then we went out to dinner with Bob, Sheila, Bill and Michael. 

Historic Beaufort SC

Tomorrow we plan to rent bikes and pedal to Port Royal and then we are planning another overnight jaunt down to Brunswick GA.   Next stop after that will be Florida!